Speaking as I was a few items ago about great places to eat meat: If you forced me at gunpoint to name the best meal I've ever had that is still available — which exclude things my mother made — I know what I'd say. It would be the Porterhouse Steak at Peter Luger's Steakhouse in Brooklyn, especially if it was accompanied by their German Fried Potatoes. A reasonable facsimile of this masterpiece can be obtained at Wolfgang's Steakhouse in Beverly Hills and, I suppose, at the twelve other Wolfgang's around the world. Here is what this wonderful plate of cooked cow looks like…